Safety and Comfort: Making the first week less stressful for all!
You have just picked up your perfect little Capital Mini pup and have loved on them all the way home. Now what?!
It is important that there is an enclosed, safe space for your new pup to play in that is part of the action but is also a place to call their own. This can be a large wire kennel like this one from Amazon or it can just be a small fenced in area in your living room with potty protection underneath like the picture below.
It is also important that the puppy have "me" time to self-comfort and be independent by your side. As potty training progresses and the puppy becomes more familiar and comfortable with the surroundings, you can let them roam more and more until the barrier is no longer needed for safety and comfort.
You have just picked up your perfect little Capital Mini pup and have loved on them all the way home. Now what?!
It is important that there is an enclosed, safe space for your new pup to play in that is part of the action but is also a place to call their own. This can be a large wire kennel like this one from Amazon or it can just be a small fenced in area in your living room with potty protection underneath like the picture below.
It is also important that the puppy have "me" time to self-comfort and be independent by your side. As potty training progresses and the puppy becomes more familiar and comfortable with the surroundings, you can let them roam more and more until the barrier is no longer needed for safety and comfort.
First Week Checklist and activities | |
File Size: | 48 kb |
File Type: |
Potty Training!
This is the number one cause of stress when getting a new puppy for puppy and new parent.
It is important to know remember that the puppies just started to use their potty muscles 4 weeks ago! Prior to that mom did the work. It takes humans 3-4 years to even start the process.
1. Be patient. The puppy is not only learning your rules about everything but also learning how to control their body.
2. Give them more opportunities to be a "good boy/girl" than to disappoint you. They want to make you happy. Make it easy for them.
They should NOT have unfettered access to your home until they have mastered potty training. See Safety and Comfort above. I see puppy training as human training. Take your time and enjoy the puppy. MAS are highly intelligent dogs and they can sense your emotions. Make them good ones and you will have a more confident, people-pleaser and will result in a better relationship in the future. Here is a link to a play pen that works well indoors for quiet time and is tall enough to work for a while. This is a washable cloth floor pad you can put on the floor in the play pen to protect the floor.
Limit exposure to unknown dogs and unclean surfaces until 16 weeks of age. Avoid dog parks, pet stores, and any other area unknown dogs may lick or urinate/defecate on. Your pup cannot fight these diseases yet and will be at risk. Until 16 weeks of age, only allow your pup to come into contact with dogs you know are healthy and are up-to-date on their shots. Socialization is important but not at the risk of your pups health.
Consider continuing potty pad holder use to start. Your pup from us is already potty pad trained. Because it is NOT safe to take your pup out to potty in common areas, if you don't have a private, fenced back yard, it is best to use a potty pad holder until your pup is 16 weeks old and fully vaccinated. Potty pad holders with the grate on top prevents the pups from destroying the potty pad. Here is a link to the potty pad holder we like.
When training a puppy to relieve themselves while on a leash - which is entirely different for a dog that going on their own - go to the area you want them to use, and STAND STILL, giving them the range of the 6 foot leash. And if you can choose an area you want them to equate with a pee station, and always go back there, they will learn much faster!
Here is a great PDF potty training resource guide with great tips and tricks to mastering potty training
This is the number one cause of stress when getting a new puppy for puppy and new parent.
It is important to know remember that the puppies just started to use their potty muscles 4 weeks ago! Prior to that mom did the work. It takes humans 3-4 years to even start the process.
1. Be patient. The puppy is not only learning your rules about everything but also learning how to control their body.
2. Give them more opportunities to be a "good boy/girl" than to disappoint you. They want to make you happy. Make it easy for them.
They should NOT have unfettered access to your home until they have mastered potty training. See Safety and Comfort above. I see puppy training as human training. Take your time and enjoy the puppy. MAS are highly intelligent dogs and they can sense your emotions. Make them good ones and you will have a more confident, people-pleaser and will result in a better relationship in the future. Here is a link to a play pen that works well indoors for quiet time and is tall enough to work for a while. This is a washable cloth floor pad you can put on the floor in the play pen to protect the floor.
Limit exposure to unknown dogs and unclean surfaces until 16 weeks of age. Avoid dog parks, pet stores, and any other area unknown dogs may lick or urinate/defecate on. Your pup cannot fight these diseases yet and will be at risk. Until 16 weeks of age, only allow your pup to come into contact with dogs you know are healthy and are up-to-date on their shots. Socialization is important but not at the risk of your pups health.
Consider continuing potty pad holder use to start. Your pup from us is already potty pad trained. Because it is NOT safe to take your pup out to potty in common areas, if you don't have a private, fenced back yard, it is best to use a potty pad holder until your pup is 16 weeks old and fully vaccinated. Potty pad holders with the grate on top prevents the pups from destroying the potty pad. Here is a link to the potty pad holder we like.
When training a puppy to relieve themselves while on a leash - which is entirely different for a dog that going on their own - go to the area you want them to use, and STAND STILL, giving them the range of the 6 foot leash. And if you can choose an area you want them to equate with a pee station, and always go back there, they will learn much faster!
Here is a great PDF potty training resource guide with great tips and tricks to mastering potty training
Potty Training Resource Guide | |
File Size: | 2808 kb |
File Type: |
Crate Training!
Nighttime crate training:
Consider age: 8 week old are still learning to control their bladder so I do set an alarm to get up several times a night to take the puppy out to relieve themselves. They often can sleep through the night at 12 weeks old or so but every puppy is different.
Size and type of crate: I send each pup home with their own hard side travel crate for initial crate training. Once they have started sleeping through the night and the crate has been moved off the bed, you can transition them to the wire crate that has the divider panel in to limit the size and adjust accordingly as they grow. Depending on your pup's predicted adult size, a 36" or 42" with adjustable divider wire crate will work great. I always like to get as big of wire crate as I have room for. This gives them lots of room to sploot or spread out. Your goal is that they see their crate as a safe place, a "den" if you will.
Bedding: A clean, folded towel is the best material to start with when beginning training. You can count on needing to change out the towel every day, as it will most likely get peed on. You want your puppy to get used to the crate being a clean place, so don't leave soiled bedding in there. Then when your puppy reliably wakes up dry, you can upgrade to a comfy crate mat.
Placement of crate: When crate training, always put the hard-side travel crate on the bed next to your face. This allows you to softly reassure your pup and let them feel your breath. After a few nights of quietly sleeping on the bed, you can move the travel crate right beside your bed where the pup can hear and smell you and you can reach down and put your fingers in the door so they know you are there . Remember they are not used to being alone, and need the comfort of your nearness. It does help to put a very small (personal) fan placed outside the crate blowing through the metal grate door. It keeps the puppy cool, which encourages rest, and the "white noise" helps block out scary noises that go bump in the night. When they either grow out of their travel crate or are sleeping so well you feel they are ready for their wire crate, place the wire crate as close to your bed as possible. Again, this can just be a transition location until they are loving their crate and are ready to be away from you in favor of their favorite crate.
If puppy gets really restless during the night (and you've followed all the above suggestions first) they may need to go out and relieve themselves. If you do need to take them out, then afterward go back to the same routine of settling them in for the night.
Daytime crate training:
Sometimes it is necessary to have your pup in their wire crate during the day. This should never be the case until after you have completed the process of Nighttime crate training!
ROUTINE, ROUTINE, ROUTINE!!!! Consistency in training is a must!!! With a young pup, start out with short sessions during the day after they've played (and are tired) eaten (and pottied!) and you're going to be quiet for awhile (great time to take a nap!). Don't expect an untrained pup to be happy in their crate if there's a party going on in the rest of the house! A pup that's 4 months or so can also enjoy a long lasting chew item - a stuffed, frozen Kong toy, a Bully stick, or a raw, frozen beef bone. Just remember - what goes in, comes out, so if it's a food type item, puppy will need to be able to potty when they wake up. And the bully sticks and raw bones make them thirsty. Water should be available to the puppy at all times when they are crated.
For the first few months, multiple potty breaks a night may be necessary if you don't want accidents in the crate. This is an example of the schedule we keep with the puppies prior to them coming home with you keeping in mind that the puppies have access to litter box/potty pad and water at all times
Fun! ALWAYS giving a treat when they go into the crate, whether they go in of their own accord or I put them in. See my Favorite Dog Items section below on which treats I use. Even my completely trained dogs still get treated. That insures a quick, reliable response when I say "Bedtime!" That quick response helps at night but also when it is imperative for their safety to quickly get into their safe place.
Potty time: Pick them up from the crate and quickly carry them outside. DO NOT expect them to be able to control their bladder long enough to get out on their own. Then use a command. I say potty outside. Then when they do, I praise and say "good job! Potty outside!" Even now, we get up early (4 am) to let the adult dogs out (we crate at night in our bedroom) for a potty break. They do their thing and come right back to bed. They have access to water at all times, in and out of their crate. This is Arizona after all.
A verbal command letting them know it is time to go into their crate. We say Bedtime and they all run upstairs to their crates. But it can be whatever works for you but use it every time. You never know when that simple command could save your dogs life.
Bedtime: Make sure the last mealtime is 4 hours or so before bedtime. Make sure the puppy has a chance to potty before you put them in the crate, and that they are tired. Most of them will fall asleep in the evening anyway (be sure you take them outside as soon as they wake up). Make sure you are ready to go to bed when you put the puppy in the crate (which is beside your bed).
In the morning, quickly take puppy out to relieve themselves. They will be wound up and ready to play, so plan on some playtime before you feed them.
Nighttime crate training:
Consider age: 8 week old are still learning to control their bladder so I do set an alarm to get up several times a night to take the puppy out to relieve themselves. They often can sleep through the night at 12 weeks old or so but every puppy is different.
Size and type of crate: I send each pup home with their own hard side travel crate for initial crate training. Once they have started sleeping through the night and the crate has been moved off the bed, you can transition them to the wire crate that has the divider panel in to limit the size and adjust accordingly as they grow. Depending on your pup's predicted adult size, a 36" or 42" with adjustable divider wire crate will work great. I always like to get as big of wire crate as I have room for. This gives them lots of room to sploot or spread out. Your goal is that they see their crate as a safe place, a "den" if you will.
Bedding: A clean, folded towel is the best material to start with when beginning training. You can count on needing to change out the towel every day, as it will most likely get peed on. You want your puppy to get used to the crate being a clean place, so don't leave soiled bedding in there. Then when your puppy reliably wakes up dry, you can upgrade to a comfy crate mat.
Placement of crate: When crate training, always put the hard-side travel crate on the bed next to your face. This allows you to softly reassure your pup and let them feel your breath. After a few nights of quietly sleeping on the bed, you can move the travel crate right beside your bed where the pup can hear and smell you and you can reach down and put your fingers in the door so they know you are there . Remember they are not used to being alone, and need the comfort of your nearness. It does help to put a very small (personal) fan placed outside the crate blowing through the metal grate door. It keeps the puppy cool, which encourages rest, and the "white noise" helps block out scary noises that go bump in the night. When they either grow out of their travel crate or are sleeping so well you feel they are ready for their wire crate, place the wire crate as close to your bed as possible. Again, this can just be a transition location until they are loving their crate and are ready to be away from you in favor of their favorite crate.
If puppy gets really restless during the night (and you've followed all the above suggestions first) they may need to go out and relieve themselves. If you do need to take them out, then afterward go back to the same routine of settling them in for the night.
Daytime crate training:
Sometimes it is necessary to have your pup in their wire crate during the day. This should never be the case until after you have completed the process of Nighttime crate training!
ROUTINE, ROUTINE, ROUTINE!!!! Consistency in training is a must!!! With a young pup, start out with short sessions during the day after they've played (and are tired) eaten (and pottied!) and you're going to be quiet for awhile (great time to take a nap!). Don't expect an untrained pup to be happy in their crate if there's a party going on in the rest of the house! A pup that's 4 months or so can also enjoy a long lasting chew item - a stuffed, frozen Kong toy, a Bully stick, or a raw, frozen beef bone. Just remember - what goes in, comes out, so if it's a food type item, puppy will need to be able to potty when they wake up. And the bully sticks and raw bones make them thirsty. Water should be available to the puppy at all times when they are crated.
For the first few months, multiple potty breaks a night may be necessary if you don't want accidents in the crate. This is an example of the schedule we keep with the puppies prior to them coming home with you keeping in mind that the puppies have access to litter box/potty pad and water at all times
Fun! ALWAYS giving a treat when they go into the crate, whether they go in of their own accord or I put them in. See my Favorite Dog Items section below on which treats I use. Even my completely trained dogs still get treated. That insures a quick, reliable response when I say "Bedtime!" That quick response helps at night but also when it is imperative for their safety to quickly get into their safe place.
Potty time: Pick them up from the crate and quickly carry them outside. DO NOT expect them to be able to control their bladder long enough to get out on their own. Then use a command. I say potty outside. Then when they do, I praise and say "good job! Potty outside!" Even now, we get up early (4 am) to let the adult dogs out (we crate at night in our bedroom) for a potty break. They do their thing and come right back to bed. They have access to water at all times, in and out of their crate. This is Arizona after all.
A verbal command letting them know it is time to go into their crate. We say Bedtime and they all run upstairs to their crates. But it can be whatever works for you but use it every time. You never know when that simple command could save your dogs life.
Bedtime: Make sure the last mealtime is 4 hours or so before bedtime. Make sure the puppy has a chance to potty before you put them in the crate, and that they are tired. Most of them will fall asleep in the evening anyway (be sure you take them outside as soon as they wake up). Make sure you are ready to go to bed when you put the puppy in the crate (which is beside your bed).
In the morning, quickly take puppy out to relieve themselves. They will be wound up and ready to play, so plan on some playtime before you feed them.
Nutrition
This is super important and often overlooked. A properly-fed puppy is a happy, healthy dog. We feed Victor Hi-Pro Plus from weening on. You can find the Victor from Amazon or Chewy.
Grain free is a new trend but The FDA has announced it is investigating a potential connection between grain-free diets and a type of canine heart disease known as dilated cardiomyopathy. And more recently the association of peas and pea flower in food. Click here for details.
This is super important and often overlooked. A properly-fed puppy is a happy, healthy dog. We feed Victor Hi-Pro Plus from weening on. You can find the Victor from Amazon or Chewy.
Grain free is a new trend but The FDA has announced it is investigating a potential connection between grain-free diets and a type of canine heart disease known as dilated cardiomyopathy. And more recently the association of peas and pea flower in food. Click here for details.
Feeding and Schedule
By the time your Capital Mini puppy comes home with you, they will have been on dry puppy food exclusively. Up until 6 months of age, your puppy needs to be fed the recommended daily amount by age and weight divided into 3 meals a day. After 6 months you can switch them to feed 2 time per day. Do not feed less than 2 times per day and do not go longer than 12 hours without feeding!
Do NOT let your MAS self-feed. They have a tendency to overeat and therefore become overweight. This will have a negative impact on their bone and joint development and cause you serious problems down the road.
Recommended feeding schedule
7 am feeding
Potty, sleep and play
12 pm feeding
Potty, sleep and play
5 pm feeding
Potty, sleep and play
By the time your Capital Mini puppy comes home with you, they will have been on dry puppy food exclusively. Up until 6 months of age, your puppy needs to be fed the recommended daily amount by age and weight divided into 3 meals a day. After 6 months you can switch them to feed 2 time per day. Do not feed less than 2 times per day and do not go longer than 12 hours without feeding!
Do NOT let your MAS self-feed. They have a tendency to overeat and therefore become overweight. This will have a negative impact on their bone and joint development and cause you serious problems down the road.
Recommended feeding schedule
7 am feeding
Potty, sleep and play
12 pm feeding
Potty, sleep and play
5 pm feeding
Potty, sleep and play
Vaccinations and Health
Shots
Your Capital Mini puppy will receive their first vaccination at 6 weeks old. This will be their first in a series of 4 shots, 3 of which they will need to get after they come home as well as a Rabies vaccine at 16 weeks.
6 weeks - DA2PPv vaccine + wormer (completed with us by our vet)
9 weeks - DA2PPv (distemper, adenovirus, parainfluenza, parvo) + wormer
12 weeks - DA2PPv + wormer
16 weeks - DA2PPV, 1 yr Rabies, fecal test for presence of worms (wormer if positive), and other vaccinations depending on exposure and risk in your area (Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease).
1 year - Repeat all 16 week vaccinations
2 year - Repeat all 1 year vaccinations except Rabies
3 year - Repeat 2 year vaccinations
4 year - Repeat 1 year vaccinations
etc.
Depending on your environment, you may want more than the DA2PPv shot after 16 weeks. Here is a link to the AKC recommendation for vaccinations.
Mom's milk provides immunity to all the bad things that out there. However, during weening, this immunity fades and your pup is now at risk. When this risk begins and at which point the immunity fades enough for the vaccination to take hold is a guessing game hence the need for a shot-gun approach to vaccination. This risk is too great to leave your puppy exposed to the diseases that the vaccination prevents. If you have never seen a dog die of parvo, consider yourself lucky and do everything you can to make sure that doesn't happen to your puppy. Vaccinations save lives!
Until 16 weeks of age and all vaccinations are complete for the time being, only allow your pup to come into contact with dogs you know are healthy and are up-to-date on their shots. Socialization is important but not at the risk of your pups health.
Dewormer
All puppies are born with or receive worms through the mothers milk. Even a mom with a negative worm test prior to whelping may pass on eggs that lived in the muscle tissue. The stress of whelping and caring for puppies causes the once dormant eggs to move into the mammary glands. Your puppy received their dewormer beginning at 2 weeks and then again at 3, 4, 6, and 8 weeks. At your first vet visit within 72 hours of bringing your pup home, you may request a fecal test to determine the worm status of your pup. The stress of a new home may cause once dormant worms to become active and affect your pups health. If no test is done, it is recommended that you have your pup dewormed at each vaccination up to 16 weeks. At that point it is recommended that a fecal test be done. Then, if your pup is exposed to a common play area such as dog parks, your pups should be dewormed once per month.
Bone growth and joint health
Proper nutrition is important for bone growth and joint health. Feeding high quality dog food is important (See Nutrition above) but so is careful play and exercise. Your new puppy is growing at a rapid rate. Their bones are still forming and their joints still very loose. Limiting long walks and jumping is very important for the first year. After that, let the puppy tell you how long is too long of a walk by watching for signs of soreness and exhaustion, especially in the warm months.
Do NOT let your puppy jump from heights taller than their own height for the first year and no taller than twice their height the second year! Long hikes should be avoided for the first year.
Shots
Your Capital Mini puppy will receive their first vaccination at 6 weeks old. This will be their first in a series of 4 shots, 3 of which they will need to get after they come home as well as a Rabies vaccine at 16 weeks.
6 weeks - DA2PPv vaccine + wormer (completed with us by our vet)
9 weeks - DA2PPv (distemper, adenovirus, parainfluenza, parvo) + wormer
12 weeks - DA2PPv + wormer
16 weeks - DA2PPV, 1 yr Rabies, fecal test for presence of worms (wormer if positive), and other vaccinations depending on exposure and risk in your area (Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease).
1 year - Repeat all 16 week vaccinations
2 year - Repeat all 1 year vaccinations except Rabies
3 year - Repeat 2 year vaccinations
4 year - Repeat 1 year vaccinations
etc.
Depending on your environment, you may want more than the DA2PPv shot after 16 weeks. Here is a link to the AKC recommendation for vaccinations.
Mom's milk provides immunity to all the bad things that out there. However, during weening, this immunity fades and your pup is now at risk. When this risk begins and at which point the immunity fades enough for the vaccination to take hold is a guessing game hence the need for a shot-gun approach to vaccination. This risk is too great to leave your puppy exposed to the diseases that the vaccination prevents. If you have never seen a dog die of parvo, consider yourself lucky and do everything you can to make sure that doesn't happen to your puppy. Vaccinations save lives!
Until 16 weeks of age and all vaccinations are complete for the time being, only allow your pup to come into contact with dogs you know are healthy and are up-to-date on their shots. Socialization is important but not at the risk of your pups health.
Dewormer
All puppies are born with or receive worms through the mothers milk. Even a mom with a negative worm test prior to whelping may pass on eggs that lived in the muscle tissue. The stress of whelping and caring for puppies causes the once dormant eggs to move into the mammary glands. Your puppy received their dewormer beginning at 2 weeks and then again at 3, 4, 6, and 8 weeks. At your first vet visit within 72 hours of bringing your pup home, you may request a fecal test to determine the worm status of your pup. The stress of a new home may cause once dormant worms to become active and affect your pups health. If no test is done, it is recommended that you have your pup dewormed at each vaccination up to 16 weeks. At that point it is recommended that a fecal test be done. Then, if your pup is exposed to a common play area such as dog parks, your pups should be dewormed once per month.
Bone growth and joint health
Proper nutrition is important for bone growth and joint health. Feeding high quality dog food is important (See Nutrition above) but so is careful play and exercise. Your new puppy is growing at a rapid rate. Their bones are still forming and their joints still very loose. Limiting long walks and jumping is very important for the first year. After that, let the puppy tell you how long is too long of a walk by watching for signs of soreness and exhaustion, especially in the warm months.
Do NOT let your puppy jump from heights taller than their own height for the first year and no taller than twice their height the second year! Long hikes should be avoided for the first year.
Training
MAS are highly intelligent dogs and require early and consistent training. It is important to sign you and your pup up for training with an experienced trainer in your area.
Having a consistent language and body indicators is important for positive results. For example, if you want your dog to not eat your food, you say, "Leave it" or "Not yours." And everyone in the household says the same thing. It is as much training your dog as it is training the rest of your household.
Some very important commands to teach as soon as possible with links to AKC training videos:
Leave it or Drop it
Come when called
Sit
Other great videos on training and receiving your AKC Good Canine Citizen Certificate if you choose can be found on the AKC Youtube page.
MAS are highly intelligent dogs and require early and consistent training. It is important to sign you and your pup up for training with an experienced trainer in your area.
Having a consistent language and body indicators is important for positive results. For example, if you want your dog to not eat your food, you say, "Leave it" or "Not yours." And everyone in the household says the same thing. It is as much training your dog as it is training the rest of your household.
Some very important commands to teach as soon as possible with links to AKC training videos:
Leave it or Drop it
Come when called
Sit
Other great videos on training and receiving your AKC Good Canine Citizen Certificate if you choose can be found on the AKC Youtube page.
Avoiding potential disasters
Poisoning
Dogs are not designed to digest and process the same foods as humans and many food and items that we have in our homes are deadly to our dogs. Do not feed your dogs from your plate and avoid giving your dog anything other than dog food. Keep plants away from dogs. Assume all house plants are dangerous if exposed to or ingested.
Here are a couple links to the common poisonous food and plants found in most homes or yards.
www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/pet-poisons-from-a-to-z-26-common-items-that-are-dangerous-to-cats-and-dogs
www.caninejournal.com/foods-not-to-feed-dog/
www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants
Escaping!
Microchip
Your Capital Mini was microchipped and preregistered with AKC Reuinite prior to coming home. Provide your vet with the microchip number at the very first visit. However, be sure to update the address if you every move (for the lifetime of your dog).
Tag ID
Not everyone owns their own Microchip reader. Your neighbor down the road probably doesn't. But they probably have a phone. It is important to equip your dog with a properly fitting collar and ID tag. As a puppy, you will probably need a size small collar but will eventually need a medium size. Keep and eye on the snugness of the collar and adjust accordingly. The rule of thumb is that your should JUST be able to slide your finger under the collar. If there is too much slack, your puppy could slip out and get hurt. If there is not enough room, they could injure or strangle themselves.
Enclosure
If your dog will have free reign of the back yard, do a perimeter check prior to your puppy coming home. Check for holes or potential areas for your dog to dig under. Check for low spots that your very agile MAS can jump over, and speak with your neighbors and let them know that you will be bringing home and new puppy. Give them a picture. Include them in your plan to keep your pet home and safe.
If you have a common play area with the neighbors, make sure there are not any dog aggressors that may injure your puppy. Check the perimeter and items laying on the ground in the dog park. There are some sick people out there that have thrown poison into dog parks. Never let your puppy out of your sight!
Poisoning
Dogs are not designed to digest and process the same foods as humans and many food and items that we have in our homes are deadly to our dogs. Do not feed your dogs from your plate and avoid giving your dog anything other than dog food. Keep plants away from dogs. Assume all house plants are dangerous if exposed to or ingested.
Here are a couple links to the common poisonous food and plants found in most homes or yards.
www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/pet-poisons-from-a-to-z-26-common-items-that-are-dangerous-to-cats-and-dogs
www.caninejournal.com/foods-not-to-feed-dog/
www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants
Escaping!
Microchip
Your Capital Mini was microchipped and preregistered with AKC Reuinite prior to coming home. Provide your vet with the microchip number at the very first visit. However, be sure to update the address if you every move (for the lifetime of your dog).
Tag ID
Not everyone owns their own Microchip reader. Your neighbor down the road probably doesn't. But they probably have a phone. It is important to equip your dog with a properly fitting collar and ID tag. As a puppy, you will probably need a size small collar but will eventually need a medium size. Keep and eye on the snugness of the collar and adjust accordingly. The rule of thumb is that your should JUST be able to slide your finger under the collar. If there is too much slack, your puppy could slip out and get hurt. If there is not enough room, they could injure or strangle themselves.
Enclosure
If your dog will have free reign of the back yard, do a perimeter check prior to your puppy coming home. Check for holes or potential areas for your dog to dig under. Check for low spots that your very agile MAS can jump over, and speak with your neighbors and let them know that you will be bringing home and new puppy. Give them a picture. Include them in your plan to keep your pet home and safe.
If you have a common play area with the neighbors, make sure there are not any dog aggressors that may injure your puppy. Check the perimeter and items laying on the ground in the dog park. There are some sick people out there that have thrown poison into dog parks. Never let your puppy out of your sight!
Socialization
Your new Capital Mini has had an adventurous first 8 weeks. They have met adult dogs other than mom, learned to eat dry food all by themselves, play with toys and litter mates, learned to potty in a specific spot, heard and dismissed strange sounds like fireworks, thunder, cats meowing, children playing on a playground etc, and they have learned to love snuggles from humans.
However, this is just the beginning. Every puppy needs constant, positive interactions with their environment to be a confident dog in the future. Every negative exposure makes the second interaction that much more problematic. While it is important to limit exposure to disease and unknown dogs. It is just as important to provide exposure to fun and safe new experiences.
Keep in mind that this is also the first time that your puppy will have been alone in their entire life. Be patient and understanding as your puppy learns to look to you and themselves for comfort and entertainment. Funny fact! This litter loves classical/meditation music. When I play this YouTube channel all chatter and whining stops and they settle in for a nap. Perhaps playing this for your pup will reduce stress when alone.
Just taking your new pup into the world to experience new things is not socialization! Look down the leash at how their young partners were feeling about it. Puppy socialization is showing your puppy as much of the world that they can experience while making sure they still feel safe, and never experience fear or doubt, or the urge to hunt or fight.
Think of socializing differently. You are teaching your puppy how he should FEEL about the world. How he feels inside as he sees people, dogs, traffic, - that emotion will stay with him for all future events. This means that if you have a timid puppy, they might need to see the world from the front seat of your car as you do errands. Or maybe they need to experience it from your arms, and you can squeeze them gently if you feel their heart rate speed up, but do not talk to them. Be silent, and through your own posture and emotions towards the fearful stimulus, show your puppy how they should behave.
The first step in puppy socialization is becoming your puppy's ride or die' their solid trustworthy partner and protector. This relationship is crutial before ever expecting a puppy to trust the outside world, strange dogs and people. This takes weeks, months, perhaps a year.
Situations where this trust can be, and most often is, broken:
Going inside Stores: Be sure the focus is on the puppy and not shopping. Be aware of their body language and dont rush the process. If you are just dragging a scared puppy on a leash through a busy, bustling store, you are creating a problem, not solving one.
Pass the Puppy and Handling: The puppy should always get to decide who puts their hands on them. Always! Being able to avoid this stressor will give them confidence the next time and will be more willing to approach this situation knowing they can get out of it when they feel the need.
Puppy Play and Dog Parks: Play should be reciprocal and fun. Puppies like to make a lot of noise when they play but you should be aware and be willing to intervene when the tone becomes aggressive and body language changes to stiffness. Dog parks are fine if there is only 1 or 2 other dogs and all owners are watching closely for these signs. If the owners are gathered for social hour, walk away. If your puppy is significantly outnumbered find a less busy park.
Strangers Feeding Cookies: This teaches your dog to look to others for their reward. This is not building your trust with your dog. Instead monitor interactions with strangers and when they confidently interact with strangers in a way you like, YOU reward them.
As you train your puppy and show them the world, always consider how they are feeling inside. Is their jaw loose, and panting, showing their comfort? Is their body tense, or is their skin loose? While we must challenge them and show them the world, their challenges must be ones they can overcome and feel good about it, immediately, with a bit of effort. If they don’t feel good about it, your socializing is setting them up to be tense, fearful and most likely reactive as an adult. Advocate for your puppy. Protect them. Make them feel safe. Or you will have about twelve years to reflect on your errors as you watch your dog struggle every single day. ~ Monique Anstee, Author of As a Dog Thinketh.
This is a series of videos provided by Avidog University and they highlight the importance of building trust beginning from the day you bring your new puppy home to its first birthday. This is a 4 part series.
Your new Capital Mini has had an adventurous first 8 weeks. They have met adult dogs other than mom, learned to eat dry food all by themselves, play with toys and litter mates, learned to potty in a specific spot, heard and dismissed strange sounds like fireworks, thunder, cats meowing, children playing on a playground etc, and they have learned to love snuggles from humans.
However, this is just the beginning. Every puppy needs constant, positive interactions with their environment to be a confident dog in the future. Every negative exposure makes the second interaction that much more problematic. While it is important to limit exposure to disease and unknown dogs. It is just as important to provide exposure to fun and safe new experiences.
Keep in mind that this is also the first time that your puppy will have been alone in their entire life. Be patient and understanding as your puppy learns to look to you and themselves for comfort and entertainment. Funny fact! This litter loves classical/meditation music. When I play this YouTube channel all chatter and whining stops and they settle in for a nap. Perhaps playing this for your pup will reduce stress when alone.
Just taking your new pup into the world to experience new things is not socialization! Look down the leash at how their young partners were feeling about it. Puppy socialization is showing your puppy as much of the world that they can experience while making sure they still feel safe, and never experience fear or doubt, or the urge to hunt or fight.
Think of socializing differently. You are teaching your puppy how he should FEEL about the world. How he feels inside as he sees people, dogs, traffic, - that emotion will stay with him for all future events. This means that if you have a timid puppy, they might need to see the world from the front seat of your car as you do errands. Or maybe they need to experience it from your arms, and you can squeeze them gently if you feel their heart rate speed up, but do not talk to them. Be silent, and through your own posture and emotions towards the fearful stimulus, show your puppy how they should behave.
The first step in puppy socialization is becoming your puppy's ride or die' their solid trustworthy partner and protector. This relationship is crutial before ever expecting a puppy to trust the outside world, strange dogs and people. This takes weeks, months, perhaps a year.
Situations where this trust can be, and most often is, broken:
Going inside Stores: Be sure the focus is on the puppy and not shopping. Be aware of their body language and dont rush the process. If you are just dragging a scared puppy on a leash through a busy, bustling store, you are creating a problem, not solving one.
Pass the Puppy and Handling: The puppy should always get to decide who puts their hands on them. Always! Being able to avoid this stressor will give them confidence the next time and will be more willing to approach this situation knowing they can get out of it when they feel the need.
Puppy Play and Dog Parks: Play should be reciprocal and fun. Puppies like to make a lot of noise when they play but you should be aware and be willing to intervene when the tone becomes aggressive and body language changes to stiffness. Dog parks are fine if there is only 1 or 2 other dogs and all owners are watching closely for these signs. If the owners are gathered for social hour, walk away. If your puppy is significantly outnumbered find a less busy park.
Strangers Feeding Cookies: This teaches your dog to look to others for their reward. This is not building your trust with your dog. Instead monitor interactions with strangers and when they confidently interact with strangers in a way you like, YOU reward them.
As you train your puppy and show them the world, always consider how they are feeling inside. Is their jaw loose, and panting, showing their comfort? Is their body tense, or is their skin loose? While we must challenge them and show them the world, their challenges must be ones they can overcome and feel good about it, immediately, with a bit of effort. If they don’t feel good about it, your socializing is setting them up to be tense, fearful and most likely reactive as an adult. Advocate for your puppy. Protect them. Make them feel safe. Or you will have about twelve years to reflect on your errors as you watch your dog struggle every single day. ~ Monique Anstee, Author of As a Dog Thinketh.
This is a series of videos provided by Avidog University and they highlight the importance of building trust beginning from the day you bring your new puppy home to its first birthday. This is a 4 part series.
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Favorite Dog items
Here is a list additional items I love and use
Here is a list additional items I love and use
- Dog gate to limit access to parts of the house
- Mighty Dog or Invincibles stuffed toys. You puppy may be small but they are determined to find out what is inside everything!
- Nylabone Teether toys. They love this well into adulthood and chewing helps relieve anxiety. Just watch for pieces breaking off.
- Another great Nylabone
- Doc Roy's Forti Cal Gel. The first few days in their new home, your puppy may not eat well. This provides them with extra calories and will prevent hypoglycemia issues. Be sure to administer as directed if needed.
- Doc Roy's GI Synbiotics Gel. This is a must as often the tummy exhibits the symptoms of their anxiety first. The Synbiotic gel will help promote digestive health and minimize diarrhea those first few days in their new home. It can take less than 24 hours of dehydration to increase the chance of a life-threatening situation for a new puppy.
- Training Treats: AVOID CHICKEN TREATS. Try to get limited or 1 ingredient treats that you can pronounce the items. These are highly nutritious, never been recalled, and are a high value training reward
- Bully Sticks and Himalayan Yak Cheese sticks: Highly stimulating and helps relieve anxiety. Always supervise when your pups has these
- Bow Wow Buddy bully stick safety holder
- Silicone Slow feed food bowl to prevent fast eating and choking. AVOID plastic bowls as many dogs sensitive noses are irritated and have a reaction to plastic bowls. This link is a ceramic bowl.
- Stainless steel water bowl for clean, non-stagnate water.
- Crate water bowl as they should have access to water AT ALL TIMES!
Grooming
Your MAS requires minimal grooming. However, they are a double-coat dog. This means that they have an undercoat under that beautiful topcoat. Right now they have a puppy coat that just looks like a fuzz machine. They will shed that at about 4 months.
It is very important that you never, ever shave with a buzzer a double-coat dog. Only scissor groom these types of dogs. Shaving the undercoat damages the coat and will cause the coat to come in extremely thick or not at all. The undercoat has a very important job to insulate and cool your dog. Here is a great article with more information on this.
Your MAS will have beautiful feathers behind their front legs and britches on their bottom. These are perfect places for burrs and other lawn debris and critters to latch onto. They are also what makes your MAS coat unique. A quick brush out will do the trick for most things but always check for ticks if that is a concern in your area.
Bathing as little as possible will keep the skin healthy. You would be surprised what a nice brushing out will do for the coat. Unless your dog smells, a bath should not be necessary and may actually do more harm than good.
I created a YouTube channel specifically to help families do their own grooming. These are simple, short videos focused on maintaining the aussie look but with a pet (not show grooming) in mind. Here is the link to my channel
Here are some grooming products I use:
Your MAS requires minimal grooming. However, they are a double-coat dog. This means that they have an undercoat under that beautiful topcoat. Right now they have a puppy coat that just looks like a fuzz machine. They will shed that at about 4 months.
It is very important that you never, ever shave with a buzzer a double-coat dog. Only scissor groom these types of dogs. Shaving the undercoat damages the coat and will cause the coat to come in extremely thick or not at all. The undercoat has a very important job to insulate and cool your dog. Here is a great article with more information on this.
Your MAS will have beautiful feathers behind their front legs and britches on their bottom. These are perfect places for burrs and other lawn debris and critters to latch onto. They are also what makes your MAS coat unique. A quick brush out will do the trick for most things but always check for ticks if that is a concern in your area.
Bathing as little as possible will keep the skin healthy. You would be surprised what a nice brushing out will do for the coat. Unless your dog smells, a bath should not be necessary and may actually do more harm than good.
I created a YouTube channel specifically to help families do their own grooming. These are simple, short videos focused on maintaining the aussie look but with a pet (not show grooming) in mind. Here is the link to my channel
Here are some grooming products I use:
- Burt's Bees 2 -in- 1 puppy shampoo https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
- Isle of Dogs Keratin Volume Shampoo https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
- Bark2Basics D-mat conditioner https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
- Mixing bottle for concentrates https://a.co/d/aPTbuHm
- Statzko Anti-static De-matting conditioning spray https://www.chewy.com/stazko-anti-sta...
- Chris Christensen Ice on Ice Sunscreen spray https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
- Groomers best Diamond G Nail grinder tips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NDK4J94/...
- Dremel pet https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7350-Pe...
- 8" Grooming scissor set https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
- Happy Hoodie https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
- Shernbao High Velocity hair dryer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
- Bojafa cordless hair trimmers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
- Slicker brush https://www.amazon.com/Show-Tech-Tran...
- Undercoat rake https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M14GWS2?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_STR5E8K32Z3NZVEBDAZ0
- BioSilk horse hair brush https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
- Nail clippers https://www.amazon.com/Epica-Best-Pro...